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Is your heart set on an
antique engagement ring?

Tips and traps when choosing antique engagement rings

Let us not be too particular; it is better to have
old secondhand diamonds than none at all.
~ Mark Twain ~


In recent years there has been a resurgence in interest in antique engagement rings.

The Victorians made fish knives popular for fine dining. They were also responsible for establishing the modern custom of separate wedding and engagement rings.

The discovery of diamonds in South Africa in the 1860s saw the diamond dominating the engagement ring market, with settings changed so the emphasis was on the gem rather than the metal around it.

Until then, rings had been more ornate, often showing ivy, flowers or a snake, which traditionally represented wisdom, life and eternity.

A Victorian gold, enamel and diamond serpent ring once owned by the wife of Charles Dickens was sold at auction in 2002 for $8,200 US.

Antique serpent ring
An example of an antique serpent ring.

The serpent on the ring has diamonds on its head and tail and its eyes are formed by two deep red rubies. The Dickens House Museum in London bought the ring, made in 1840 and believed to have been given to Catherine Dickens by the French dandy Count D'Orsay. The museum also has Catherine's engagement ring.

As well as changing the look of rings, the vast diamond reserves of Africa put the gems within the reach of ordinary Victorians. Catalogues of the time show a huge range of styles with diamond rings from as little as £2 and every young woman wanted one to mark her betrothal.

On the manufacturing front, two important changes took place in the 19th century -­ the creation of the Tiffany setting using six platinum claws to hold the gem and, soon after that, the widespread use of platinum in rings because of its color and lighter weight.

Sadly, Victorian rings no longer cost anything like £2. Fine specimens sell for $20,000 US and more, but there are much less expensive rings available.

Antique ring
Just one example of an antique-style engagement ring

If your heart is set on an antique engagement ring, here are some points to consider:

  • Before buying, have the ring professionally appraised. Are its gems asstated, or are the "rubies" just garnets? Is the setting intact, or has it beenrepaired or need repairs? Are the stones chipped or cracked? The answers toquestions such as these will determine the ring's value.

  • If the gold shank on an antique engagement ring is too small or worn and in need of replacement, the hallmarking may be lost in the process. Ensure that the jeweler who works on the ring gives you a photograph, with written and signedinterpretation, of the hallmark so the date is authenticated.

  • If an antique engagement ring's mount is badly worn or damaged, remounting the gems may be the only option. It pays to get an estimate of cost before proceeding. In some cases, buying another more expensive antique ring in better condition maysave money in the long term.

  • Think outside the square. Despite being sometimes seen as unlucky, some fine Australian opals were used in rings made 80 or more years ago. A popular style was small garnets set around the opal in less expensive rings. Bigger opals were surrounded by diamonds. Semi-precious stones, particularly amethysts, were popular in earlier times as dress rings made striking engagement rings.

An antique engagement ring has a character and history that often sets it apart from more modern designs. As long as you follow the simple steps outlined above, buying an antique engagement ring will give you years of pleasure.



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